MENDINI, ALESSANDRO (ARCHITECT, DESIGNER)
Known for his particular interest in neo-modern and contemporary design, Alessandro Mendini has amassed much recognition as a designer, architect and image consultant for many corporations creating many objects, furniture and interior installations. Mendini describes his mission as one "to communicate through my objects and work in general, trying to say things that encourage people to deepen meditation and spirituality."
MUEHLE SHAVING GERMANY
About Muehle Shaving
Muehle Shaving (today Hans-Jürgen Müller GmbH & Co. KG) made the first shaving brushes in Stützengrün (Germany) in 1945. Since then, the location has been consistently expanded and further developed. Today, Hans-Jürgen Müller GmbH & Co. KG is an efficient, innovative company which combines industrial expertise with a high degree of skilled craftsmanship. With their private brand MÜHLE they are the only manufacturer worldwide producing a superior full product range for wet shaving. They are equally successful in the distribution of selected international brands for body care and beauty.
For the classic wet shave with a straight razor
It is experiencing a renaissance, is an art in itself and the work of practised hands: shaving with a straight or “cut-throat” razor. Practice makes perfect – and attending special courses or barber shops is also worthwhile. Please observe the following instructions and protect the people around you by keeping your razor in a safe place.
Moisten your beard with preferably warm water. The more thoroughly you then lather it with a brush, the more easily and gently the beard can be shaved. Use shaving cream or soap with high moisturising properties as this allows the blade to glide more effortlessly over the skin. Begin with the smooth areas of the face.
Open the razor carefully and hold it with your thumb and three fingers so that the opened handle is pointing away from your face. To begin with, shave only the sideburns, using your usual razor for the rest. On the following days, gradually shave larger areas of the face to develop a feeling for safe shaving with the straight razor.
The facial skin previously prepared with shaving lather must be pulled tight. To avoid injuries to scars or skin impurities it is advisable to remove the shaving soap from these areas. Pull the area to be shaved tight with the fingers of your free hand and move the razor at an angle of 30 degrees, at first in the direction of the beard growth, then carefully against the grain the next time around. Always move the straight razor evenly. Hold it at a slightly steeper angle for the cheek bones, chin dimple and upper lip.
Protection against injury
Only use straight razors that are in perfect condition. Never move the blade horizontally as this can result in deep and dangerous cuts. If the razor is held too flat it tears the stubble, and if held too upright it cuts the skin. If the razor is dropped or the blade catches when folding it into the handle, it must not be used again until it has been re-sharpened by a specialist. Simply honing on a leather strop is not sufficient.
When cleaning the blade, never touch it with your fingers, as you could cut yourself or ruin the cutting edge.
Taking care of your straight razor
After shaving, clean the razor thoroughly with clear water and carefully dab it dry. Never dry the blade with a cloth as this will destroy the fine edge. Lubricate the blade carefully with a little oil if you are not going to use the razor for a longer period. Keep it in a dry and well aired place. If the razor does not produce a clean shave, re-sharpen it by honing. Always hone the razor before shaving, not after. Let the razor rest for 24 hours beforehand. In this time, most of the edge regenerates itself, the blade is preserved and retains its sharpness for longer. Blunt razors require more pressure and increase the risk of cuts.
Honing the blade
We recommend hanging strops made of fine cowhide. The honing strop must kept taut as a sagging strop causes rounding of the blade. Dubbin can be applied wafer-thin to the leather side and kneaded in with the heel of your hand. This stops it from drying out, keeps it supple and prolongs its service life. Honing is done at a shallow angle with the back facing down and pointing away from the body in the pulling direction. When changing direction the razor should be turned over its back and then honed back towards the body, i.e. always against the cutting edge. Changing direction via the cutting edge causes it to become round (convex) and tolose its sharpness. In this case, the blade must then be re-sharpened by a specialist.